After a super varied season of high tours and climbing, it was time to think again where the autumn climbing trip should go? According to stories by friends and colleagues who have already laid out the California granite hand, the decision was soon firmly “Yosemite” do muast hin”.
Now it is necessary to compare flights and get the best out of it, even a rental car had to be organized a GMC Yucon it should be. From home we went by train to Munich, so to speak the last time we left our ecological footprint before it is too late anyway over the big pond. At check-in, the time-tested “shame” worked wonderfully, so we were able to board the flight to San Francisco without expensive excess baggage. The entry worked like a string, unfortunately only for Berni and me, Maria and Christoph were duly harassed by the staff with suspiciously long gloves and could not enter until 3 long hours later.
The next day the last equipment defects (camping chairs) were fixed and our GMC was properly loaded. For the next 4 hours we went relatively unimpressed towards Yosemite Valley. But that was soon to change when we were given the first look at the “El Capitan”.
When we stood directly under the “El Cap” the climbing spirit was felt and you just can’t get out of the amazement. Now it’s time to check into the famous Camp 4 of the legendary climbing hotspot in the Valley. The first night we spent asleep in the open air queue before we could move into our place.
At the beginning, it’s first and foremost getting used to the rock and, above all, getting used to crack climbing. You might think climbing is the same but you’re fooling yourself and we’ve been taught a better one. The disciplines could be compared to American football and rugby, but for the loan almost the same but actually two different sports.
A few multi-rope routes later comes the desired touch and it’s time for our first mini trainings Bigwall. But before you can start, it means thinking about what we eat, how much do you need to drink and where and how to go to the toilet in the middle of the wall. After a few purchases in the perfectly sorted climbing shop later the plan was fixed and it was possible to start. Each team equipped with 2 haulbags we were able to get the first 3 pitches perfectly behind us and had already arrived at the top of the sleeping place. Portaledge built up isomats rolled out and quickly fixed 3 pitches so that the next day would not be quite so long. Except for a “small” exit from Berni with an insulted side band, we were able to get the 2nd day behind us well and we were prepared for something bigger.
Time was moving forward and the otherwise perfect weather announced “Thank God” a rainy day in the middle of the week. So one or the other rope team was prevented from getting into the route and we had free way. With full Haulbags we walked towards El Capitan to the entrance of the Route Freerider of a tour that has everything to offer that makes a climbing heart beat faster. From perfect crack climbing to steep gradings and rather scary chimneys or offwidths, everything was there.
What can you say if you drag about 120 kg through a 1000 m wall? It’s really hard!!! But every single meter has gone to 100. It’s just magic to experience the exposure, whether it’s climbing or even at night with so many mediocre bivouacs. So 4 days later we were able to get off at the top of El cap and descend comfortably to Camp 4. Time perfectly timed it began to shake in the evening and the mountains had a white dress on the next morning.
We made our trip perfect with 3 days in the Red Rocks and a rather crazy night in Las Vegas. I was super happy after 3 weeks of climbing to come home and take the rest of the aisle in my arms.
Thank you for a great time to the team Oberpinzgau and definitely Yosemite we will be back!!!
Merci and now fun while waging
Greets markus
